In this guide, we will explain how to replace the extruder gear for your M3D PRO. You will need a 2.0mm/1.5mm hex screwdriver for the disassembly and you’ll want to be in an antistatic environment. Some electronics will be exposed during the disassembly and there is a chance you could damage them. We recommend not working on a carpeted area and to discharge before working. You can do this by touching something metal (Not the printer) for at least one second. Wearing an antistatic wrist-wrap would be good. Link for a wrist-wrap here https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Anti-Static-Components-RTK-002-Yellow/dp/B004N8ZQKY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494531998&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=anti+static+wrist+strap&psc=1
Although it is highly recommended to use an antistatic wrist-wrap, if you do not have access to the antistatic wrist-wrap, you can do the repair process by having a metal contact to your body throughout the repair.
Since the M3D PRO 3D printer is a highly static device as there are various PCBs involved, if the repair process is carried out without following the above recommendation and the customer end up frying the electronics, they would need to send back their printers to M3D headquarters for replacement.
Step 1. The first step will be to remove the front cover from the Pro. To do this you will need to remove the hex screws from the cover. There are a total of 8 screws in each cover. Four screws on the top and four screws on the bottom.
Step 2. Once you have removed all of the screws you can gently start pulling the cover off the Pro. Try pulling out the top a little first and then move onto the bottom. Keep going back and forth from top to bottom until the cover is removed.
Step 3. Once the front cover has been removed move onto the rear cover. The process will be similar to the front cover. The only difference will be that there is a grommet attached to the cable assembly on the bottom that may need to be removed to remove the rear cover.
Step 4. Once the front and back covers are removed you will be left with the box top rails. These can easily be removed by just lifting them up and off the rods.
Once the rails are removed be sure to check the rods to make sure all the spring washers are there. You should have one spring washer on each rod. You may want to remove these and keep them in a safe place so you do not lose them.
Step 5. If you need to remove the extruder and gantry’s from the rods continue on with this
step. Next you will need to open the software and go to Setting >>> Expert Controls >>> Basic Controls. Once there you will notice some arrows with letters on them. Please use the Z + arrow to move the extruder up towards the top. You can use the box in between the Z arrows to increase the increments at which the extruder moves up and down. Keep moving the extruder up in till it reaches the top.
Step.6 Once the extruder has reached the top and cannot go up any more than it should the software will not allow you to raise it any more. In the Gcode window of the spooler type M1012 and hit enter then type G33 and hit enter you can now raise the gantry all the way to the top until you will be able to remove the extruder without issue. Once free Disconnect The Pro from the USB and Power
Step 7. Once you have the extruder and gantry’s removed, you should be able to pull the rods out of the sliders to remove the extruder from the X rods. If you have one of our early Pro’s then the rods might have been press fitted on. To remove these you will need to twist the gantry’s back and forth to loosen the fit and remove the rods.
Step 8. If you are running into any grinding noises please continue with this step. Once the extruder is off you should be able to see the X gear and encoder wheel inside the holes where the X rods are inserted. A encoder wheel rubbing up against the encoder could be causing your noise issue. Please provide a picture like the one below.
If you cannot get a good shot of the encoder wheel and encode together then please continue with the next step.
Step.9 In this step we will disassemble the extruder core slightly to get a better photo of the encoder wheel and encoder. Pinch the bottom of the front cover to remove it.
Step 10. Once the front cover is off you will need to unplug the fan cable. The fan cable is located at the top of the “X Board” located on the right side of the extruder motor.
Step 11: Now you would need to take the internal print head assembly out that consists of the cable assembly, extruder housing and the X housing as shown in the picture below as well as remove the clear wallE cover:
Step 12: Next, disengage the cable assembly from the extruder housing but taking off the screw that sits on the top of the small sheet metal as shown in the picture below:
Step 13: Remove the two screws that joins the extruder housing to the X housing as shown in the picture below:
Step 14: Remove the nozzle subassembly in order to get access to screw that is hidden behind the black teflon tube (teflon short) as shown in the picture below:
Step 15: Remove the screw that holds the extruder encoder to loosen it as shown in the picture below:
Step 16: The next step would be take the extruder motor out so that the old extruder gear can be pulled out for replacement. The extruder motor is removed and placed seperate as shown in the three picture below:
Step 17: Now the extruder gear needs to pushed out of the extruder housing as shown in the picture below:
The extruder gear after being pushed out will look like as shown in the picture below. The extruder gear has a small bearing that sits on the top and it remained inside the extruder housing when the old extruder gear was pushed out and thus is not shown in the picture below. If that bearing comes out of the housing make sure that you place it back on the top of the new extruder gear and then push the whole assembly (extruder gear plus the top bearing) into the extruder housing.
Step 18: The new extruder gear is placed into the extruder housing as shown in the picture below:
Step 19: After placing the extruder gear as shown in the above picture, use the back of the screw driver to push the new extruder gear deep into the extruder housing such that it is pushed all the way back in as shown in the picture below:
NOTE: See how the bearing that seats on the top of the extruder gear is pushed all the way back in as shown in the picture above (shown by the red arrow).
Step 20: Now engage the extruder housing and the X housing back together as shown in the pictures below:
Step 21: Lastly, engage the cable assembly through the small sheet metal with its appropriate screw to the extruder housing as shown in the picture:
This is how the finally subassembly should look like once all the components (extruder housing, X housing and cable assembly are put together):